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- Written by: Frederic Dias
- Category: Blog (Science)
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We analyze the microwave imaging of shoaling nearshore surface gravity waves during the process of steepening and breaking over two beaches for a wide range of environmental conditions. The extracted backscatter intensity and Doppler speed form distinct patterns that reveal a nonnegligible dependence on environmental conditions. The backscatter signature exhibited by breaking waves remained consistent and similar throughout all datasets. Before consolidating the findings, it is imperative to conduct a further investigation of radar imaging of nonlinear wave dynamics in shallow water to eliminate any possible influence of imaging mechanisms. The details are presented in a paper that just came out in IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing (https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/10460567)
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- Written by: TK
- Category: Blog (Science)
- Hits: 110
Have you ever wondered which website or app you should use for your weather or wave forecast? There are so many - Ventusky, Windy, Met Eireann, AccuWeather, to name a few. All of them producing the forecast for the next few days, sometimes consistent, sometimes slightly different, and sometimes - very different! Who has time to check multiple websites? Different ways of presenting forecasts makes it even harder to compare the presented information.
What you could receive the wave and weather forecast on your phone, in one neat graph, with sources clearly stated? Let me introduce Wave Obs!
Read more: Wave and Weather Forecast for the West Coast of Ireland
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- Written by: Claire Bergin
- Category: Blog (Science)
- Hits: 1059
Have you ever wondered why we might be interested in studying the effect of rain on water waves? This is one of the key research questions for Claire's PhD thesis. Why not watch the short video below and find out more?
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- Written by: Frederic Dias
- Category: Blog (Science)
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The pressure wave generated by Tonga's volcanic eruption was clearly observed three times (at least) by our weather station on Inis Meáin. Prof. Emile Okal estimated the arrival times at 18:45, 01:35+1 and 06:20+2 with his model. Note the change in polarity for the second wave. Phases advances are generated when the wave goes through the antipodes.
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- Written by: Frederic Dias
- Category: Blog (Science)
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For many years, I have been puzzled by the limiting form of solitary waves at the air/water interface and its consequence on wave breaking. It turns out that the air plays an important role. With my Chinese colleagues from the Institute of Mechanics, Chinese Academy of Sciences, and my old collaborator Prof. Jean-Marc Vanden-Broeck, we performed careful numerical simulations to study the limiting configuration of interfacial solitary waves. The details are presented in a paper that just came out in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2021.521)
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- Written by: Frederic Dias
- Category: Blog (Science)
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Coastal Boulder Deposits (CBD) are large rocks transported on land by storm or tsunami waves. Because CBD are very durable they can provide long term records of coastal inundation, but quantifying the strength and source of inundation remains controversial. The recent paper of our research associates A. Kennedy, R. Cox and of the HIGHWAVE PI F. Dias published in Geophysical Research Letters (https://doi.org/10.1029/2020GL090775) uses many records of CBD found worldwide combined with wave climatology to determine the range of transport possible for storm-wave CBD, and then to compare present results to findings using older methodologies. It is found that these older methods can underestimate the potential for storm waves to create CBD, and some previously identified “tsunami” CBD may actually have been generated by storm waves.
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- Written by: Frederic Dias
- Category: Blog (Science)
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The first scaled experiments to determine breaking wave impact modes and energies responsible for the transport of boulder clasts of O(100 t) positioned atop coastal cliffs were carried out at Ecole Centrale de Marseille (ECM) in February 2021. In the experiments, the influence of the breaking wave crest shape and of the energy contained in the breaking wave were investigated.
Read more: Preliminary smart boulder experiments in Marseille
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- Written by: Tatjana Kokina
- Category: Blog (Science)
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As part of the HIGHWAVE project we are delighted to announce that some recent work has been accepted for publication in the Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (Special issue on Extreme Waves). The work focuses on comparing the effects of the wave spectrum, computed using the Discrete Interaction Approximation (DIA) and the Webb–Resio–Tracy (WRT) methods, on statistical wave properties such as skewness and kurtosis. In addition, we investigate the minimum spatial domain size required to obtain meaningful statistical wave properties.
Read more: Influence of computed wave spectra on statistical wave properties
- Phenomenal Waves of the West Coast of Ireland
- Measuring waves using a multi-lens stereo reconstruction system
- New ICHEC Class A Project for HIGHWAVE to start on 1 June 2020
- World Record
- New Publication in Scientific Reports: Large nearshore storm waves off the Irish coast
- Decade of research into mystery rogue waves described in a major review published in Nature Reviews Physics
- Historical Fact... 1953
- Historical Fact... 1852
- The fascination of ocean waves